Today I would like to introduce you to a very old grape varietal called Viognier. One story is that it originated in the Dalmatian region of Croatia and brought to France by the Romans- specifically the Emperor Probus. Modern genomic analysis has shown that although poetic, it is mostly inaccurate. Viognier is genetically related to Syrah, as well as a couple of other grapes you probably have never heard of- Mondeuse Blanche and Freisa. Historically common, it fell out of favor and by the 1960s, and was almost extinct with one source reporting only 20 acres existed.

20 years later when Jancis Robinson wrote her book “Vines, Grapes, and Wines” (1985), she was only able to find 80 acres worldwide- almost all in the Rhône valley of France. In the mid 1960s, one vintage (this was the world’s total supply, by the way) produced exactly 417 gallons (about 175 cases). However, it has shown a resurgence in popularity, and is now grown worldwide, but still in relatively small amounts.

Part of the reason for this, is that it is a difficult grape to grow and vinify, as it is prone to disease, with low yields. But when done right, it makes for a delicious wine, full of flavor and body. Interestingly, in the northern Rhône valley this white grape is often added to Syrah fermentations, where it helps to stabilize the Syrah’s color and deepens its texture. This is typical of the wines of Côte Rôtie and you can look for our interpretation of this, in 2026!

Fortunately, it is becoming apparent that Lake Chelan AVA can produce some very good Viognier, and I am pleased to announce that this last year I was able to obtain some fruit- but I only made limited amounts, with less than 100 cases to be bottled (still more than half of that 1960’s vintage of 175 cases). The good news, is that this wine will be available for our spring 2025 release, so everyone in the Familia de la bodega La Garza can have the opportunity to try this new wine.

Salud!

Richard, Winemaker

Grape Talk: Viognier